Question Highframe time with Vega 64

[silvi6]

Hey my system is pretty good, but I get tearing in most games. Can someone help me? It stays at around 4ms all the time. I have tried Vsync and other integrated options of my graphics card. So it could well be a CPU or a GPU problem I believe.

i7-8700K
Gygabyte Vega 64 8GB VRAM
32GB Ram DDR4 3000MHz

If you know something that might help me thank you.

 

[silvi6]

I should have posted this on "Troubleshooting". I am very sorry!

 

[silvi6]

Hey my system is pretty good, but I get tearing in most games. Can someone help me? It stays at around 4ms all the time. I have tried Vsync and other integrated options of my graphics card. So it could well be a CPU or a GPU problem I believe.

i7-8700K
Gygabyte Vega 64 8GB VRAM
32GB Ram DDR4 3000MHz

If you know something that might help me thank you.

 

[Lutfij]

Please mention your specs like so:
CPU + CPU Cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS: if on Windows 10, mention the version(not edition)

Please state what you mean by most ? Please mention the titles without an etc. in that sentence. Temps for system when taxed and idle? Ambient room air temps?

 

[silvi6]

CPU+ CPU Cooler: i7-8700K
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370M DS3H-CF
Ram: 32 GB 3000MHz Corsair(don't remember which one)
SSD/HDD: 1 TB - M.2 Samsung 970 Evo Plus
1 TB - Samsung 870 Evo
1 TB - HDD Hitachi HDT721010SLA360
500 GB - Seagate ST500DM002-1BD142
GPU: Gigabyte Vega 64
PSU: 450 Watt +80 Gold (Don't remeber which brand it was and I am too lazy to open tha back panel to check)
Chassis: Corsair 4000D
OS: if on Windows 10, mention the version(not edition)

 

[Lutfij]

Right...You have a Vega 64, right? You have a 450W PSU, correct? Might want to check and see what the branding and series is but I can tell you off the bat that you're severely lacking in the PSU department on wattage alone.

PSU REQUIREMENTS - RealHardTechX

PSU REQUIREMENTS - RealHardTechX

www.realhardtechx.com

^ scroll down to Vega 64 and see what your base level PSU's wattage should be for the entire system.

If you continue to be lazy, you might want to stop using that computer since an underpowered PSU can be pushed to it's limits and cripple everything else it's connected to if it's build quality is lackluster or will just prevent you from you powering up or taxing the system if the PSU does have safety features. For the former, you can see a house fire as the worse case scenario or dead components when the PSU blows up...both of which aren't good things to deal with given the current state of the world.

 

[silvi6]

Thanks, I am kinda of a newbie. I am sorry if I pissed you off. :-|
https://outervision.com/b/MEMOHz

 

[silvi6]

I think I will switch to a 850W +80 Gold PSU then. Thanks for the help. If that does not work I will sure come back here again.

 

[Lutfij]

80+ Gold certification doesn't essentially mean that you're buying into a good PSU. Might want to mention where you're located, what sites you have access to and what your budget for a PSU is? We could help narrow down a PSU to replace the 450W unit.

Just for the sake of relevance, no I'm not angry, it's just sad to see people flushing money down the drain while others don't have funds to flush down.

To add, Outervision and all the other wattage calculators are on the same platform, so they aren't saying anything different. For most builds I just add 100W to the power supply suggested on a GPU's box/support site and call it a day(after making sure that the PSU is reliably built). PSU's are made out of capacitors and if you study the graph's you'll see that they mention the temperature at which the unit is operating while showing the power output from the PSU, the wattage calculator does not factor in regions that experience unusually hot, humid weather all year round, meaning they degrade faster as opposed to a unit run in a region where they see nothing but cold.

Out of curiosity, did you actually open the side panel to see what your PSU's make and model is? If you didn't, how did you come to the conclusion that the PSU is 450W?

 

[silvi6]

Out of curiosity, did you actually open the side panel to see what your PSU's make and model is? If you didn't, how did you come to the conclusion that the PSU is 450W?

I bought it second hand, so I know from then that it was a 450W. I haven't changed a lot. Only add Internal Drives and another 16 GB ram stick to make it a 32GB. I have already ordered this PSU.
https://www.megekko.nl/product/4186/219756/PC-Voedingen-PSU-/Corsair-RM850x-PSU-PC-voeding?s_o=6

 

[silvi6]

Also I forgot to add. I have 30 days to return it if I change my mind. Change my mind will be "it does not improve anything". I know it will not overheat as much and cause unexcessive stress to some compnents(potentually), but if does not make the difference I think I will return it. Still need to think about it tho.

 

[Lutfij]

That PSU is rock solid, well done! I forgive you for buying that horrible PSU prior(yes it's horrible, now that I know it was a second hand unit). I wonder how your system ran to begin with...? Wait, you added a second stick to get to 32GB? Both sticks are identical? What slots are the rams populating on the board? BIOS version for your motherboard? Also, I realized you didn't include the version for your OS. Right click on start, scroll to System and the version should be shown at the bottom of the new window.

 

[silvi6]

Not really. One of the stick is C15 and the other is C16. They both run on C15 so that means that the C16 one is potentially overclocked. I have not experianced a unexpected shut down, so I think it is probably alright. You know more than me so I will hear from you I believe.

Wait, you added a second stick to get to 32GB?

Yes

I wonder how your system ran to begin with...?

It does run still, but I believe that the PSU is on it's last legs. Especually when I game 2-8 hours a day. I am still 15, so after school I have homework. But after the homework I have nothing else essential to do so my best choice is to hop on a game with the homies.

 

[silvi6]

I can not send text sometimes, because it counts it as spam. Can you check that out for me please. Thanks

 

[Lutfij]

Sometimes? Do elaborate.

You might want to use CPU-Z and take a screenshot of all the tabs.

You didn't understand what I meant, it would've killed your other devices in your build, if it didn't take them out already which is what I'm concerned about.

 

[silvi6]

You didn't understand what I meant, it would've killed your other devices in your build, if it didn't take them out already which is what I'm concerned about.

Yeah I understood that, because you told me. I never knew it could actually kill components. My best guess was that it just has a higher chance to break.

You might want to use CPU-Z and take a screenshot of all the tabs.

Will do.

 

[silvi6]

CPU tab: Photo
Mainboard tab: Photo
Memory tab: Photo
SPD tab: Photo1 Photo2 (resetted the motheboard, by removing the 1,5volt battery that's why it resetted the clock speeds will fix it) I resetted it because it wouldn't read any of my drives so it wouldn't boot to windows. It restared 2 times to test it self or something I don't know, but then it started working perfectly afterwards.
GPU tab: Photo
Bench tab: Photo

 

[Lutfij]

You'd be best off selling the two sticks of ram and picking up a dual channel ram kit. You're also better off with a DDR4-3200MHz ram kit, to eek out that performance from your platform. If you don't know what you're looking at on the SPD tabs, the two sticks of ram are from two different kits(that's like having two different sized clown shoes). The lack of any VRM heatsinks on the motherboard does leave a lot more doubt(the same as the PSU) but you're pending BIOS updates. Gradually work your way to the latest BIOS version taking note of any MEI firmware updates as you update the BIOS.

So in short your "performance" losses are not just confined to your PSU...you forgot OS version.

It does run still, but I believe that the PSU is on it's last legs.
Like I said you don't understand, that PSU shouldn't have any legs, not when the parts in your system want more than what the PSU can deliver. In fact, it should be 6 feet under considering it's a second hand unit.

 

[silvi6]

You'd be best off selling the two sticks of ram and picking up a dual channel ram kit. You're also better off with a DDR4-3200MHz ram kit, to eek out that performance from your platform. If you don't know what you're looking at on the SPD tabs, the two sticks of ram are from two different kits(that's like having two different sized clown shoes). The lack of any VRM heatsinks on the motherboard does leave a lot more doubt(the same as the PSU) but you're pending BIOS updates. Gradually work your way to the latest BIOS version taking note of any MEI firmware updates as you update the BIOS.

So in short your "performance" losses are not just confined to your PSU...you forgot OS version.

It does run still, but I believe that the PSU is on it's last legs.
Like I said you don't understand, that PSU shouldn't have any legs, not when the parts in your system want more than what the PSU can deliver. In fact, it should be 6 feet under considering it's a second hand unit.

Thanks very much. I am going to sleep now. It is 2am where I am and I really need the sleep. I will consider selling the ram sticks and buying the right ones. About the PSU I completely agree. You should always have some more power than it can draw from it. It is like opening the electricity box and putting a wire to hold 10-20 of amps on it. You need a fuse that can at least handle 10-20% more than the given amount. I will check on the bios update as well. I thought I did it but after checking CPU-Z I see that it isn't. Thanks for the help I really appreciated it. Have a good day/night!

 

[Lutfij]

Update the BIOS after your PSU comes in. In the interim period, stay busy not powering the PC. Good night!

 

[silvi6]

Update: I got the new PSU and I took out the old one. Turns out I actually have the "RM 550X" from corsair. I checked the specifications and it has enough juice to power mu computer. Although I belive the upgrade was worth. I don't think that that was the problem after all. I am currently starting to assemble the pc back together.

 

[Lutfij]

I checked the specifications and it has enough juice to power mu computer.
No it doesn't. It's still less than what the entire system needs when taxed.

You haven't gotten back to the OS version question that I made a couple of posts above.

 

[silvi6]

I checked the specifications and it has enough juice to power mu computer.
No it doesn't. It's still less than what the entire system needs when taxed.

You haven't gotten back to the OS version question that I made a couple of posts above.

Yes, I still need to do it when I assemble everything.

 

[silvi6]

I put everything back together. It works better than before that's for sure and I can already notice it a bit. Now is the time to update the BIOS.

 

[silvi6]

After a lot of attempts I managed to upgrade my BIOS. Also the high frametime has not changed. Still averaging around 4ms. https://silvi6.amog-us.host/uiUWb406

My CPU was averaging 40-50% utilization and my GPU was 60-70%. I am running the lowest graphics for the best performance. Any other thing that can be effecting this?

Also, I realized you didn't include the version for your OS. Right click on start, scroll to System and the version should be shown at the bottom of the new window.

Windows 10 20H2. Pending an upgrade to 21H1. https://silvi6.amog-us.host/r0xyykJs