Upgrade advice- PC Gaming on my TV- TCL 43S517 with Xbox Wireless Controller – Remix Special Edition


I am a PC gamer. My system runs fine/ perfect. I am disabled- all I do is sit here and play PC Games with keyboard and mouse. I would like to sometime kick back on my lazy boy recliner- learn how to use a controller and play a few PC games on my TV. My TV or entertainment center is beside my pc desk here in my living room. My TV [HDMI connection] is about 6' away from my PC case. I build my own Gaming PC'. I have never tried to use my TV as a monitor- and as said- I have never used a controller.

I think I can get my controller paired/ wired up and running easy enough- actually learning how to use it is another story. I will guess getting my TV and sound hooked setup is my issues. I am trying to read as much as possible and watch videos on the topic. Most info is basic or like a tweet and lacking imo. I ordered an HDMI cable and the controller and will be here in a few days. I like to plan out my builds or projects- and read about what problems I might run into and can maybe avoid. I will post all my hardware/ gear below. I am working with my main PC- Big Frank- my PC sig is below. I will post links for all the gear and PC motherboard- Video card- TV- Stereo- Controller- and connection cables I am using. Thank you for the help.

1. I got this sweet Xbox Wireless Controller – Remix Special Edition- new with battery and charging cable from Xbox.com for $59.99- about 63.00 with tax and free shipping and returns for 90 days. I had to jump on it. Here in a few days.

2. My Motherboard

3. My Vid card- using DP to my monitor- normal pc setup

4. My TV- TCL 43S517

5. My Stereo- I use this instead of a sound bar or other powered speakers for TV- being the little speakers built into the tv put out low or little sound. And when not watching TV- the stereo has other function/ options- like BT and CD player/recorder and am/fm and 2x usb ports that also can record if I remember right

6. My Sound cable- connecting TV to my stereo

7. The HDMI cable I just bought and here in a few days

8. USB C 3.2 Gen 2x2 Male to Female Extension Cable 20Gbps/100W. Not sure if need this. I got it so not reach around back of case to run my external NVme drives. I know somethings like direct connect and hate extensions.

9. My Belkin Wall Mount Surge Protector - 3 AC Multi Outlets & 2 USB Ports

10. I have a few Android phone type wall chargers- USB type A to multi connections- Mini USB- type C etc. I have read I do not have to plug the controller into the pc though I will at times. Said- I can use it plugged into a wall charger and Blue Tooth and can use it with not even a battery in it. I am thinking about cable distance.

11. I have Spectrum Net with Wifi. I wire connect my main PC Big Frank and my TV to the net. I dont have/ use cable TV. My TV is ROKU- Amazon Prime is the only paid service I have. Think I read sometime ago I can also connect to the TV from the router or wifi and Windows media player. But I am not thinking of or trying to do that- besides- I have many USB flash drives and can place video or photo files on it and plug into and run on the TV- it has a built-in media player.

12. My Lap Top- I Wifi the net and Blue Tooth to my LG sound system. My Lap Top sig is below. I can wire net my lappy but I dont use it much. Not needed for this- just saying.

13. just a thought- a wish list type thing- because I am not sure if will work or not with USB C devices. More wish it to be a direct replacement cable if ever needed. I would like 1 around 10' long and high spec like this- they are back compat.

USB C Cable 10Gbps - USB-IF Certified USB-C Cable - USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C Cable - 100W (5A) Power Delivery Charging, DP Alt Mode - USB C to C Cord - Charge & Sync

My Motherboard has Lan and Wifi 6E and Bluetooth 5.2- and on back IO panel has- USB C 3.2 Gen 2x2 20GB and 3x USB 3.2 Gen 2 type A 10GB and 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 type A 5GB and 2x USB 2- and added from Motherboard 2X USB 2 break out on back of case. Front of case has 2x USB 2 and 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 type A 5GB. I dont use the onboard lan. I bought a standalone lan card. I read the onboard Intel lan can have probs- so I am avoiding such. I did not install the onboard lan drivers. I did install the Wifi and Blue Tooth drivers. I have not used the Wifi but I have used the Blue Tooth to connect to my LG stereo. I read it might be best to update my Blue Tooth drivers- so maybe no probs with my controller. I have downloaded them- but not installed yet. BT drivers seem easy- and I can see them in add remove programs. I will delete old first- then install new. I see a problem with the Wifi drivers on my PC. I dont see them in add remove programs. I can go into system and hardware and find and see its installed and says I can check for new drivers etc. I am afraid of those. I cant do a normal delete and then reinstall- so- I am not sure how to do it or if might bug out. I'm not even sure I need worry about it.

I know how to get around in Windows 11 settings. I know how to get around in Nvidia settings. I know how to get around in my TV and Stereo settings. Also I have my lap top setup with a monitor. So- yes I can get around in both windows and nvidia display controls. Its nothing I do every day- but I can.

I think the Controller is less of my worries. I have latest Xbox for PC App installed. I read its best to wire it first- and normally windows auto runs it- after that it should normally pair and connect fine if not wired. I am not sure if wired to the pc if its only for charging and the Blue Tooth is always on or not. As said- I have read I can plug the charge cable into the wall and still BT connect to the PC- even if no battery is installed. I will update the drivers from the MSI Motherboard drivers download page. Again- I am not sure about the Wifi drivers. I know when going to use the Controller I need go into windows and turn on BT. I normally have both Wifi and BT turned off on my main system because its wired to the net- and my pc has its own speakers. I think I read/ seen the controller charge cable is C on 1 end and type A on other- type A into pc or wall charger- C into the controller. I am not sure or maybe all USB on pc are powered. I think some are more so than others. I think the C 3.2 gen 2x2 is powered- maybe just the cable above. I need search over the MSI site info and I have the PDF manual. just not sure where to look and lots of info to go through.

My worries or concerns are the TV and Sound. My TV has 3x total HDMI- 1 is ARC connections. If I read right- my TV can from the PC run 4K @ 60hz 70hz 75hz. I figure 60hz is fine and my pc can run that until the stars fall out of the sky. I bought the high spec cable [above] for future proofing or use- and they are back compat. My vid card has 1x HDMI 2.1a and 3x DP. I am not sure which HDMI on TV I should connect to. Also- the sound. I connect my pc via DP- and Connect onboard pc sound to stand alone speakers. So I dont install nvidia sound drivers. I only install physic and display drivers. I am not sure if audio moves over the HDMI from PC to TV or to just BT it. I never had use of nvidia sound drivers- and dont wish my pc going crazy over multi drivers etc. I click make sure nvidia sound is off in windows audio controls- make sure I have my pc speakers on and Stereo Mix is on- and spidi is off etc. If needed I will install use them- and use my normal wired [above] sound from TV [headphone] jack out to my Stereo set to AUX . I think I should be able to run the sound over BT. Best I read BT can run multi devices at same time. Also I am not sure about Vsync. I guess the TV will not compat with Gsync. I think I need make Hz and sync adjustments from nidia- maybe windows or both. I think the TV auto handles whatever is sent to it?

I will guess I can wire the HDMI and leave it and just go into windows settings or nvidia settings to change between my normal pc monitor setup and TV and sound. I hope so- and not have to plug unplug wires every time I wish to use 1 or the other. I know from TV settings to put it in game mode- latency reasons. Oh yah- I wonder- I guess this is or can be set up like a dual display system- might I be able to game on the TV using controller- and if need- jump on PC and normal KB mouse set up at same time- if needed search the net for something guides etc? This stuff might not be hard at all. Its just I never did it before and I have no friends or family or anyone at all that knows about this stuff. I am trying to get all my ducks in a row- and this is how I am about most anything. I research and learn all I can before I jump into my projects. As said before- It also helps you to know what probs might come up. A few things lack info. So I ask for help and this is the most great PC Gaming Site and group of people on the planet. If any folks should know such things its surely you Guys. Thanks :)
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Woot- order my controller yesterday. Got mail saying- it shipped and will be here Thursday. My HDMI cable is said here Saturday- but can come before. We are in the middle of like a Blizzard here- so I dont know.

Learning to use it will be a real task for me. I would almost rather get one of those table-like things you can have hang over your chair- large enough for keyboard and mouse. I dont like wireless stuff- its heavy and has probs and lag etc. 1 reason I am buying this pad is because I can use it with no batteries. Is something I can mess around with. Maybe 1 of my lady friends visit sometime and can use it- is a good reason to have it. I will guess I have a few games I can enjoy with it. Thinking- Fallout4 is one. I will survive. :)
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You only gave us 4 hours to reply in

I have the slightly more expensive one - https://www.microsoft.com/en-au/d/xbox-elite-wireless-controller-series-2/8rsn7j6375gg

You need to attach it via cable the first time anyway as it needs to be charged up. After that you can choose to link via Bluetooth or the Xbox Wireless Dongle - I need to get one of those myself.

Not sure about using TV as a monitor as I have never tried. Did you see this: https://www.tcl.com/global/en/blog/tips/how-to-connect-your-laptop-to-your-tv-via-hdmi-or-wireless
You only gave us 4 hours to reply in
Thanks for the post and or help. Lol- it maybe took me that long to post and or edit 50x. I am in no hurry and will be a few more days for delivery of the Controller and HDMI cable. I am reading this page now- been reading lots of stuff. ->

Yah the elites are nice and can customize things. I did not wish to spend that much. I actually wanted one of the 10 or more year old wired usb types. Cant much find or buy them anymore.

Are you saying my PC onboard Blue tooth will not work. I thought I read it would. those dongles was more for pc that did not have wifi or blue tooth. I hope I dont need and extra cost dongle. Ok - re- read what you said- you are saying either or. I got yah. I have read- seems most people do not actually know if the cable is a I think is called a sync cable. They say or think it only powers the controller and actual talk back forth is all blue tooth. Imo- it would be both- no wire or say plugged into a wall charger its blue tooth- plug it into pc it charges and talks via wire and blue tooth turned off. either works for me.

I had not seen that exact post about the lappy and tv- but pc and lappy are same same. I have seen alike info. again I was not sure about the actual HDMI' on my TV- some connections on devices offer higher performance- the same goes for cables- and I was not sure about the ARC one. Also being plugged into my vid card if need extra drivers to run sound through it and the HDMI cable. Info I have seen or read does not say exactly if the lap top or pc video is onboard or add on cards. If onboard it would auto have all drivers installed and ready to go- or I'd guess so- or have to manually install the drivers. Windows and or lappys can auto install drivers if setup to do so- and many lappys have onboard update control center apps with the device. I use the stereo on tv instead of a sound bar or other powered speakers for TV- being the little speakers built into the tv put out low both volume and quality sound. And when not watching TV- the stereo has other function/ options- like BT and CD player/recorder and am/fm and 2x usb ports that also can record if I remember right

Maybe what you are saying is- the HDMI connected to the vid card to tv will have like an audio pass through from the pc no matter if actual nvidia sound drivers or installed or not. That works for me. I do guess I can blue tooth it to my stereo. I do see the TV also has Wifi- High-speed 802.11ac wireless and Ethernet networking. I had only seen info on net about HDMI connection. I hope not to use the Wifi on my PC- its not as secure as wired connection [net etc.].
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Just read this. ->

I might not have to install any extra drivers. Seems I can just hook-up the HDMI and then go into Nvidia and then Windows sound settings and make the needed changes and good to go. I read NVidia will only send sound to 1 device- whichever is connected and selected. The option shows in my Nvidia control center- tho I did not install the drivers for it. Might be a windows generic driver. My monitor has a headphone jack and a few usb ports. Its all connected- though I never use the ports or headphone jack. I only use the jacks/ports on my PC case.

I think the link I put in the post before this has most all the info I need. I have not read it all yet- I glanced over last half of it and searching reading other stuff same time. Its detailed black and white. I think I've got this.
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Are you saying my PC onboard Blue tooth will not work. I thought I read it would. those dongles was more for pc that did not have wifi or blue tooth. I
Bluetooth is slower, its how I have mine attached. The dongles are on a special frequency and only talk to Xbox controller(s) so give a faster response compared to Bluetooth. It can be more reliable connection, less chance of lag/drop outs. Difference isn't massive.

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Bluetooth is slower, its how I have mine attached. The dongles are on a special frequency and only talk to Xbox controller(s) so give a faster response compared to Bluetooth. It can be more reliable connection, less chance of lag/drop outs. Difference isn't massive.
Yah- me thinks I will try out the Blue Tooth. I might not use the controller much. Think I will buy a dongle- I had planned on it- just no hurry and I want to buy the original xbox type- maybe catch a good sale price. Maybe I should check prices now. The controller cost less from Xbox .com versus Microsoft site and other retailers. I will look around now while thinking of it. Hmm- MS site is out of them and Xbox site does not show them at all other than bundle with a controller. I can find them on net retailers, but some are newer versions than others and they jack up the price.

As per sound to my TV from PC. I already have my PC and Stereo paired- and is real easy- just click the sound icon on task bar- click 1 button and it connects. My stereo acts like pc speakers- and auto turns off/on pc speakers when turn on/off BT. If I have probs I can always use the HDMI method- its just many more sections and buttons I have to push every time and back and forth to use TV or normal PC monitor.

The change from TV and monitor back and forth- will not be as easy- but not terrible either. After Ive done it a few times- It should be all good. Or I think it all will go as I hope. I think I figured out all the basics I need- and found good info. I will guess others here on site will add. I know if I have probs- I can post and get it worked out. :)
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I haven't used mine that much. Not having one was reason I hadn't bought one game... now I have both controller and have played that game. I haven't looked at another use for it yet.

I kept saying I would play a game once X was done, then when X was no longer a barrier I would think of another excuse. Right now I am not really looking for anything to play. No real barriers apart from me.
I haven't used mine that much.
I was looking around and reading on the dongle. Some/ most are from 2015- maybe all of them. I read they might not work with the newer controllers- and the newer controllers are Blue Tooth. Then I see same type controller as mine in a diff color with the dongle included. So- I don't know.

If I do buy I would rather buy from xbox or microsoft and maybe it will be newer model and guess it will work. I can return it for refund- but would hate the probs and nearest ups etc from me is 45 mile round trip. I just want the controller to learn how to use it and if feel like it can kick back in my recliner and play. I sit here at my desk 10- 17 hours a day most of the time. Need a break sometimes :)
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I just wireless connected my TV to my PC with Windows 11 Miracast and PC Wifi turned on.

It worked but- the task bar bottom of screen on tv seemed a little larger or out of place- and the screen on TV kind of had a slight fuzzy pulsating effect- textures etc. I know nothing about this- and not sure if I need make some settings changes some place or not. Or maybe update my Wifi drivers - as said above I am not sure how to update my wifi drivers - they do not show in add remove programs like the BT drivers. Both my TV and my PC monitor are 4K. My PC monitor is set for 144Hz. I have a custom pc monitor back ground- its a screen shot from one of my games.

I will search read more and see if I can troubleshoot and fix it. I will guess I can also game if get it set up right. Its not connected now. I am afraid of hurting my TV.

I updated my wifi drivers. got the drivers from my motherboard site. I went into Windows Device Manager to networks- Wifi and had Windows search- and said- I had the best drivers from over a year ago. The new drivers from MSI site are a few months old. I unpacked the drivers into a folder on my desktop. I directed device man to the drivers on the desktop- and clicked add subfolders etc.- and it installed the newer drivers. New drivers did not help. I am still reading on it. From what I read- its more luck if works- or how well- or what hardware combo you have- seems to work best with onboard cpu graphics- versus add on cards- for some reason. I will sometime soon update my BT drivers.

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I can almost cry :(

Steam Link App.

I did not know about this app. Sadly- I cant run it on my TCL Roku TV. Either TCL or Roku dont support or carry it- or maybe its a prob on Steams end. This app would have been perfect for my needs.

Got my controller today. Seems to work. The Xbox Accessory app does not work right or support all features- not unless plugged into an xbox or use the wireless adaptor. I still am not sure the adaptor even works with the blue tooth controller I bought. I guess I need call Microsoft before free return runs out- I have no way to full test the product if not have the adaptor or actual xbox. If they say the adaptor will not work with this controller- I will send it back and get a refund. A shame they make this stuff and apps etc- as a fact new apps and new blue tooth controllers but its not compatible. Stuff like this really runs me crazy- even makes me mad. I never half azz anything in my life- I always put my best into everything I did or work on or sign my name to- would be same for things I build or if invent etc. Today- I just dont get some people or these companies and products or game devs and bug half working garbage- whatever. Seems most just do not care if junk or works or not- if scam- make a dollar is all that matters.

Also- I am not sure it is charging- or is full charged. Plugged into pc it works and first thing I did was update its firmware. I can change map set up and test see all buttons etc work- set up profiles but the battery charge icon part on the app does not work [above]. So I plug into wall plug- it fibrates- blinks for a bit and then the light turns off. I turn on- the light blinks for a bit and turns off. I had never paired it yet with just Blue Tooth. I paired it the the light stays on. So I guess the light blinks- if no activity- then turns itself off. I know when first pairing the light blinked faster.

I figured I would test and see if the wall charger works. before pairing it was same - it would blink for a bit and turn off. After pairing the light stays on. I still do not know if full charge or is charging. Actually- did not know if the wall charger gave it any power at all. So- I took out the battery- plugged into the wall charger- it was blinking- [[normal android phone type charger- using the cable that came with the controller- and works with the cable I already had- but its not long enough to try and use/ play with the controller]]-- It auto paired- and the light is steady on. I guess the battery holds charge -as said it works if paired and only on battery- and if no battery and with both battery and plugged in. I have no way of knowing how much charge it has- or if came with full charge battery- or is charging. :(
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Played a lil Fallout 4 with my new controller- omg- its one of the hardest things I have ever tried to do in my 60 year life time. Keyboard and mouse is way more natural feeling and easier to use. I will keep and mess with it more.

My HDMI cable has shipped. I will have my TV hooked to me PC soon- Woot.
I would expect they have same control schemes in PC games as they do the Xbox version... or perhaps that is wishful thinking.
The only game I have tried to play on mine was an old PS3 game so I already knew the buttons before I started. Only one still remains a mystery (how to sit down) but its not really necessary to play game.

I play games that for most part have too many buttons to be made on controller... that was what I used to say until they dumbed Diablo down to work on controller.

How well does Civ work on a controller? Cities Skylines 2?

I might try to play an arpg with a controller... one day... I used to play games? I think I vaguely remember.
My HDMI cable will be here today . A day early- sweet. Normal mail man has it now and he comes between 10 and 11.30am. I see a wireless keyboard and mouse in my future- and a lil tabletop that will hang over my recliner to hold and use them :)
I went wireless but really my PC isn't that far from me, I just didn't need the cables. I wish my keyboard had better battery life but that is only problem I have with it now. Threads on mice and Keyboards are here already... though they mostly gaming related. I spent a few weeks finding new of both.
Logitech make some good ones, I just didn't want a low profile keyboard... I wanted actual keys I could remove to clean under... low profile look like too much hassle
I would show photos but Imgur is down.
I went wireless but really my PC isn't that far from me
My pc is too far to run wired. I prefer wired everything. I will not sit in the recliner a lot- just sometimes it will be nice and more comfy- or if my legs are swelling from sitting in my desk chair all day.

I just bought this set- KB and Mouse combo. I wish rechargeable. Also ordered this wrist pad for keyboard. Also got some extra mouse pads- maybe need elevate the keyboard- or always need them for mouse- they get dirty or ware out etc. I keep batteries for other devices. I will survive just fine. :)

I am not sure if is- but I prefer the keyboards with short stroke scissor keys. I could have got less cost stuff- but I like this mouse and has a few extra buttons I can bind use for gaming. I already have a board large enough I can lay over the arms of my chair and be comfy enough. most of those tabletop-like things dont hang over far enough for good placement of keyboard and mouse. I think the board will be fine and like said its not like I will use it as a main set up. I might get a nice jell pad to sit in front of my keyboard- it will elevate my hand and wrist a little and be soft so not aggravate my hand. A few mouse pads take care of that hand.
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Well- I hook up my HDMI cable to my TV and my new wireless KB and Mouse- it all works good- image is really nice- nothing like miracast. A few simple mouse clicks and set the TV to game mode and pick the HDMI channel- its good to go. Nvidia control pan set it for HDMI sound and enable it in windows sound controls- it runs through the tv to my stereo like normal. Once I turn on the audio in NV- it shows as listed in windows.

I set the TV to 60Hz in NV control- not sure I really had to. Didnt change any Gsync compat settings. I got no tearing in the games I tested- Fallout4 and Borderlands 3. I just ran dup monitors- if not- and just ran the TV- the desktop and icons was larger and not arranged like my normal desktop. I did not wish to log out of windows to set up custom desktop- it would also change my normal desktop monitor. I more or less will just use the TV for gaming- so- no biggy.

I am back to normal desktop now and TV doing normal TV stuff. All my normal pc desktop and monitor settings are same as before using the TV. I just went to windows display and set it to only use my pc monitor- it cuts both vid and audio signal to the TV. All is sweet.

I dont really like my new kb and mouse. It works fine but the kb has a lil to much stroke distance and the mouse scroll is clicky and does not have dpi adjustment. Its still fine to play with- I can get use to it- aim is maybe a lil floaty. Not so much lag or that I can tell- just not the same as my normal desktop set up. I will guess I can make some changes for them in windows settings but will also change my normal set up- so- I will leave it all like is. I could return it and try something else- but as said- I will not be kicked back in front the tv often. The KB and mouse set up is way better than the controller imo- and I will keep it.

I love tech and PC gaming. Versatility- adding to my set-up is cool- and gives me something to do and learn :)
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Got this new Arteck wireless KB Mouse delivered today. I like it a lil better than the Logi set. Its rechargeable and the mouse works a lil better imo- and I like- prefer the lappy scissor type easy touch short stroke keys on the KB. I will keep the Logi set for back up.

Also order an Xbox wireless adaptor- here in a few days. I might not use it much- but it offers extra features if I ever need. Can check battery charge status- I think add headphone and mic. Just extra stuff for my toybox. :)

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My Xbox wireless adaptor came today. Windows 11 auto installed the drivers for it. Took me a minute to figure out how to pair and get it working. Its all good now- and using Xbox accessory app shows the battery is full charged etc. Happy happy :)
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