Question New PC build (for Win11 compliance) - Move existing Win10 to new system then upgrade to Win11?

[MystriVogt]

I build my PC in 2010/2013. It was a high-end $10K+ monster, fully modded, LQ, etc. Of course it is not Win 11 compatible so I decided to build a new system. ( https://pcpartpicker.com/list/v9HTTM - reusing some existing components.) Obviously, I am severly out of the loop for building a new system, specifically the software side of things...

I have a lot of expensive software installed on my Win10 Pro system, I am 90% sure I have the all the install files & codes for all my software. (Except for Office 2017 Home which is no long available nor can it be activated as I understand it.) However, even thinking about the process of reinstalling all of them is giving me anxiety and a headache (two things I almost never deal with.)

How difficult / not-recommended is it to move my existing Win10 Pro onto my new system, then upgrade to Win 11?

Is it 'bad enough' that I should start fresh? -- AKA buying & installing retail Win11 Home (& Office 2024 Stand-alone) for another $300), then praying all my paid software installs & activates right (It's probably over $3k worth of software.)?

Thank you for any help/suggestions.
~ Stressed!


I've always hated installing/reinstalling/repairing Windows for this reason so I've literally been using this "Windows Install" since forever, I keep most of my software/files on a separate drive. I had a HDD (like the 3.5" kind) fail in maybe 2009 (was part of the reason I decided to build my current PC because my prior system was getting old, deja vu.) Anyway, so yeah 2009 is the last time I can remember having to install retail windows and all my software, I did update some of my software, but it's entirely possible some of it could be that old...

 

[Colif]

Generally 3 results if you move an install from one PC to another

1. It works
2. It works but there are niggling problems
3. it doesn't work at all

I would backup anything you can't lose before trying that.

I clean installed onto a brand new PC a few weeks ago, the process of reinstalling everything really isn't that hard if you have a list of the programs you want to install. Not many programs these days use codes, most are linked to email addresses.

One choice you might have is move your current Win 10 install to the PC (I mean reinstall win 10) and then update to win 11 for free, as its a free upgrade from 10. That saves some money... depends if Microsoft lets you move it, really. I would try that before buying win 11.

I can't save you money on Office though.

is your current PC linked to your Microsoft Account?
if not: https://support.microsoft.com/en-au...5-81db-b24b-757e-1102d148f441#id0edbl=windows
might make the move less painful.

If you are using an old licence, you won't have a key (obviously) so when you get to the stage where it asks for the key, there should be a choice saying: I don't have a key. Windows will continue the install and should then contact an activation server after you reach desktop and link your account to the PC.

build: You might cause BSOD using 2 sets of ram. Even if they the same sticks... the sticks in ram sets are only tested to work with the other sticks in a set. So the more you add that aren't matched, the more chance of errors.

I assume you are aware of the speed drop you get using 4 sticks with Ryzen CPU - I can't find anything for your board but its actually a CPU restriction. More sticks you add, the slower they run. So if you don't care about speed and only want space, 4 might work... but generally 2 sticks is the peak memory amount for Ryzen 9000 series.

The Arctic cooler comes with thermal paste.

 

[Lutfij]

How difficult / not-recommended is it to move my existing Win10 Pro onto my new system, then upgrade to Win 11?
New system would mean you reinstall the OS instead of recycling the OS otherwise you end up either gaining grey hair or losing your hair on your head or losing brain cells in the process or all 3. If your OS license key is OEM, then don't bother migrating the license key as it's tethered to the motherboard BIOS chip.

You didn't mention the specs to your prior(current) build, if your build is with a Haswell processor, then you won't be able to upgrade Windows 10 to 11 using the internal upgrade path.

 

[Colif]

You didn't mention the specs to your prior(current) build, if your build is with a Haswell processor, then you won't be able to upgrade Windows 10 to 11 using the internal upgrade path.

even if they move it onto a new PC?
he said he built it and has a retail key but whether he can move a licence thats been updated a few times is unknown to me.

I beat you by 3 minutes, was just editing it

 

[MystriVogt]

Thank you for the responses, it's she though heh

I didn't really think my current/old machine mattered in this aspect; AMD FX-8350 5GHz OC (I don't remember who made the CPU water block anymore, it was a good one but not EK because they only had silver and I wanted all black aesthetics), Gigabyte 990FX MB, 32GB DDR3 1600MT/s, EVGA SuperNova 1600W T2 PSU, Two Radeon R9 290X 4GB GPUs with EK water block's, Sandisk 1TB SSD, 2TB WD Black HDD 3.5" (I have 3 other 3.5" & SSD drives but they're just back-up drives,) HT Omega Claro (7.1 sound card), Aquaero 6XT & an 5XT (controllers - custom dual loop setup; dual radiator's push/pull config, dual D5 pump's, & all the fans in the system,) was in two HTPC Silverstone cases custom modded to look like a classic stereo rack system, but I swapped over to a Thermaltake Core X5 case somewhere around 2015 because I got bored of the look. (Now I just have a rediculiously huge box case which amuses me, went from a tight tiny stealh-esk build to the biggest case you could possibly buy heh)

----

As to the OS, I've always updated Windows (& Office) through Microsoft directly (since Windows 3.2 if we're going to really show my age - I'm a gaming grandma...) That said, my MS account does say system type "To be filled by O.E.M." next to it... I had done the free update from XP to Win10 at some point. (I had XP for a LONG time before I forced myself to go to 10 because it meant losing my sound card which was hooked up to my A/V Receiver for 7.1 surround audio, so I put it off as long as I could.) Although, MS only shows the past 7 years of purchases, so neither Windows XP, 10, nor Office 2017 are actually listed in there.

I believe I've only activated Win10 two times since I upgraded, once in 2009-ish (or whenever my HDD had failed on me,) and I think I had to activate it one other time when I had a bad GPU update and did an image restoration or something like that.

It was my understanding that the free upgrade to Win10 was tied to your hardware, but I was under the impression I could move my current install over to my new PC and buy a new Win11 license on the new system??

My main concern is that some of my software is literally so old that the companies no longer exist. I mean the software still works fine, but say the company was bought out, so I can't just download a new version. Or even if I have the install file (which I do believe I have 90% of them backed up), I actually can't I activate/register the software even if I have the codes because the company doesn't exist anymore. (Some of them are not online activated and wouldn't be a problem. I have a few that are so old you had to copy a code file to the install directory...) Unfortunately, I might be missing some codes because of the HDD failure. (I lost my Live Mail files and thus the emails with the codes.) I had starting putting my codes into an eWallet back then, but I did have some software's I had to buy new which was pretty spendy... I should have those emails because gmail is a thing now, but I'd rather not have to re-purchase anything as I'm trying to save money.


----

Build stuff; say what on the memory? WTF are they doing making a CPU that can't use 4 sticks of ram!? Pffft... I was not aware of this, I will be on the look-out for it when I do my build. Is this a borked hardware issue or something a future bios flash might fix?

I kind of did want the memory overhead for 3D rendering. I can deal with a bit lower speed on the CPU I suppose, I generally hang out in non-OC 4.0GHz these days, so "slower" than 4.7GHz is probably still going to be an upgrade. I'm not playing FPS, PVP, or anything too "taxing" these days (Total War: Warhammer III, Civ VII is pretty much it anymore as I am not a fan of the new mmo offerings. I miss the golden age of PC gaming...) Its a bit moot, I've already ordered the 4 sticks, I guess if I have rampant BSOD's I'll return one of the sets. Amazon doesn't care.

 

[Colif]

I believe I've only activated Win10 two times since I upgraded, once in 2009-ish (or whenever my HDD had failed on me,) and I think I had to activate it one other time when I had a bad GPU update and did an image restoration or something like that.

windows 10 came out in 2015 so the 2009 transfer wouldn't count.
why did you reactivate it? If you swap too much hardware windows might not let you use license.

It was my understanding that the free upgrade to Win10 was tied to your hardware, but I was under the impression I could move my current install over to my new PC and buy a new Win11 license on the new system??

if you made the PC and it wasn't an OEM, then it should be moveable. The only licences tied to BIOS are normally OEM PC, not custom. I have helped people move their entire install to another PC, so its not tied to hardware if you can link it to your Microsoft account.

. Is this a borked hardware issue or something a future bios flash might fix?

its to do with the memory controller on the CPU. All 9000 series CPU have the same limit.

This is a warning on my motherboard.
Speed dropping policy according to AMD processor specification (EXPO/XMP disabled):
Please install the memory modules into slot of DDR5_A2, DDR5_B2 for best compatibility and performance. Ram will run at full EXPO speed. (2 sticks)
- Drops down to DDR5-5600 when 2 DIMMs of the same channel are installed e.g., DDR5_A1 / _A2. Please adjust your setup according to the recommendation as above. (think of this as 3 sticks)
- Drops down to DDR5-3600 when 4 DIMMs are installed.

Its possible you could manually set the ram to run at right speed but its not guaranteed.

The actual CPU

Max Memory Speed
2x1R - DDR5-5600
2x2R - DDR5-5600
4x1R - DDR5-3600
4x2R - DDR5-3600

https://www.amd.com/en/products/processors/desktops/ryzen/9000-series/amd-ryzen-7-9800x3d.html

your motherboard manual says:

Supported memory types, data rate (speed), and number of DRAM modules vary depending on the CPU and memory configuration, for more information please refer to CPU/Memory Support list

TUF GAMING B850-PLUS WIFI

ASUS TUF GAMING B850-PLUS WIFI: Military-grade motherboard with AMD Ryzen™ support, PCIe 5.0, WiFi 7, USB 20Gbps, and advanced cooling for peak performance.

www.asus.com

there is no notes on there about memory restrictions.

But then Asus haven't tested any 2 x 64gb sets. They have tested 4 x 48gb ones at 5200.
5200/5600 appears to be best it can do with 4 sticks.

 

[MystriVogt]

Wow, thank you for all the great info.

I guess what I'm at is try to transfer Win10 and hope it works. I have a bit over a week until parts are here so I'll have to start researching that process.

The memory thing is a bit concerning. Everything I had looked at said that memory was the best for my CPU with exception of the latency (I downgraded to 32, recommended was 30, so I could get 4 sticks of 32GB.) Seems like I need to do some more researching & comparisons; could bump up to the Ryzen 9 CPU, could get faster 2x48's with a better CL, or just return 2 sticks and save the hubby some $... *sigh*