Coconut Monkey Cornerclub

[BeardyHat]

Well, my plan for today is to...drive around.

Want to make sure my van is ready for this mountain road trip next week, so I'm going to see if it exhibits any of the strange shifting behavior it had before. It was intermittent before, so we'll see.

Though, I also want to mess around with this tablet I got. It's nothing special, but I'm kind of enamored with it and what it can do as far as emulation goes; it does a respectable job for a $250 Android tablet; even PSP was running quite well on it and it has the ability to run some Shaders in retroarch. Not my favorite ones, but that's ok, it's impressive that it can do it at all.

Not really sure why I'm testing it though, I'm likely never to use it for these things so I dunno.

 

[Frag Maniac]

Well, my plan for today is to...drive around.

Want to make sure my van is ready for this mountain road trip next week, so I'm going to see if it exhibits any of the strange shifting behavior it had before. It was intermittent before, so we'll see.

Though, I also want to mess around with this tablet I got. It's nothing special, but I'm kind of enamored with it and what it can do as far as emulation goes; it does a respectable job for a $250 Android tablet; even PSP was running quite well on it and it has the ability to run some Shaders in retroarch. Not my favorite ones, but that's ok, it's impressive that it can do it at all.

Not really sure why I'm testing it though, I'm likely never to use it for these things so I dunno.

I wasn't following the whole posts prior on your van, but I do recall you said you were working on the tranny. Is it an auto tranny? One of my worries with my 2008 Ford Escape, which has auto tranny, is it may need tranny work at some point, which is very expensive. For the most part it works fine, but sometimes taking off there's a slight lurch.

I have learned with these things that you are best off not accelerating hard with an auto tranny until they are warmed up good, but it lurches a bit every now and then even after being warmed up.

 

[BeardyHat]

I wasn't following the whole posts prior on your van, but I do recall you said you were working on the tranny. Is it an auto tranny? One of my worries with my 2008 Ford Escape, which has auto tranny, is it may need tranny work at some point, which is very expensive. For the most part it works fine, but sometimes taking off there's a slight lurch.

I have learned with these things that you are best off not accelerating hard with an auto tranny until they are warmed up good, but it lurches a bit every now and then even after being warmed up.

Yeah, it's an automatic.

You ought to check the fluid, if there's a dipstick. Be aware that there is a special protocol for checking transmission fluid; the vehicle should be hot (operating temp), parked on level ground and in Park or Neutral. Once you've got those parameters met, you can check the fluid and see if it's in the "Hot" zone of crosshatching.

Ideally, under these conditions, you want it pretty much anywhere in that Hot zone, as too much or too little Fluid in the transmission can cause shifting issues.

Based on my "measurements" of my own fluid yesterday, I think mine may have been a little high before I did this service, which could explain the shifting issues I occasionally experienced. I also saw a moderate amount of metal shavings on the magnet in the pan; it's normal to have some, but too much indicates a bigger issue with transmission health. Like I said, mine was moderate and probably not especially worrisome if it hasn't been serviced in awhile (I'm at 241k miles now and I have no idea if or when it was ever serviced) and my fluid was tinted darker, but still obviously red and didn't smell burnt, which are two other indicators of transmission health.

Doing a cursory search here, it looks like the 08-12 Escapes had the same transmission, which is generally well regarded, but needs to have its maintenance scheduled tended to in order to retain that relibility, so you may want to have it investigated. This might just be me, but I'm generally distrustful of shops (hence why I do my own maintenance), but if you were to take it in, I wonder if they'd allow you to watch while they take the pan off and then if you could immeidately be allowed to inspect the fluid and magnet to see how things are looking. Just to head off any, "Oh yeah, you need a new transmission, buddy." funny business. Unless you already have a trusted shop that is.

 

[BeardyHat]

@Frag Maniac looks like you do have a dipstick, which is nice. Most newer vehicles don't include them, because you're just supposed to throw it away and buy a new one when it starts having issues...

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC4pO0Nq3VU

 

[Zed Clampet]

I could never get the hang of flossing properly. I feel like my hands are just too big to actually fit in my mouth, so I end-up using those flossers with replaceable heads, which works out for me.

I use those, and then when I go to the dentist, I look like I've never flossed before because they just hand me some string...

***

I had to go to the pharmacy drive-thru yesterday. I'd had 4 consecutive nights with at least some sleep, so I thought I was in pretty good shape. I got to the pharmacy and there was a line of about 6 cars. I was so miserable. I fell asleep over and over (the car is actually the best place for me to sleep), so when I finally got my prescriptions, I called my wife and told her I was going to hang out and take a nap in the parking lot and see if I could wake up refreshed and not be a danger to everyone on the road when I tried to drive home.

 

[Frag Maniac]

@Frag Maniac looks like you do have a dipstick, which is nice. Most newer vehicles don't include them, because you're just supposed to throw it away and buy a new one when it starts having issues...

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC4pO0Nq3VU

Thanks for that, I guess it could be something as simple as AT fluid level. That would be a relief if so.

 

[Frag Maniac]

Hey BeardyHat, I assume you meant all the 2008-2012 Ford Escape AT are the same, not your tranny is the same as mine? Anyway, I have a few questions.

1. Do you know if my AT is supposed to have a filter? I ask because my local auto parts store's website shows an AT filter for this vehicle, but when I checked with one of the local Ford Dealers he said he didn't see one listed in their catalog and felt it doesn't have one. So did they do away with filters and now just use magnets at the bottom of the pan to attract metal filings?

2. What is your preferred method for doing a complete ATF change? I've read people warn against completely flushing out the fluid with a pump as it can dislodge the filings and reek havoc with your tranny. Most seem to say just doing a drain and fill is better.

3. Ford recommends Mercon V ATF, but I've seen Mercon LV Synthetic and equivalents for near same price. I assume the synthetic stuff is compatible with the non synthetic, but not sure. Wouldn't the synthetic hold up better, and even be more suitable for a high milage vehicle?

 

[BeardyHat]

Hey BeardyHat, I assume you meant all the 2008-2012 Ford Escape AT are the same, not your tranny is the same as mine? Anyway, I have a few questions.

Right.

1. Do you know if my AT is supposed to have a filter? I ask because my local auto parts store's website shows an AT filter for this vehicle, but when I checked with one of the local Ford Dealers he said he didn't see one listed in their catalog and felt it doesn't have one. So did they do away with filters and now just use magnets at the bottom of the pan to attract metal filings?

Interestingly, it looks like there isn't a (easily accessible) filter in your transmission. Apparently there may be one between the two halves of it, but I guess you'll really only get to that part during a full rebuild. Based on these two videos:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZCIBG2UI5w

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27MdjOEGt_M


From what I'm seeing, it looks like it's a fairly straightforward drain and refill, but I'd do a bit more research and clarify that that is the case.

2. What is your preferred method for doing a complete ATF change? I've read people warn against completely flushing out the fluid with a pump as it can dislodge the filings and reek havoc with your tranny. Most seem to say just doing a drain and fill is better.

Yeah, I wouldn't flush it, I would just drain and refill, that's always been plenty sufficient for me and I've heard plenty of horror stories about a flush as well.

3. Ford recommends Mercon V ATF, but I've seen Mercon LV Synthetic and equivalents for near same price. I assume the synthetic stuff is compatible with the non synthetic, but not sure. Wouldn't the synthetic hold up better, and even be more suitable for a high milage vehicle?

I have read that synthetic is better, but as far as I'm concerned, I always go with manufacturer requirements and never deviate when it comes to fluids, as they tend to be particular. There has definitely been times when I've swapped because I can no longer find what I need (as I recall, I believe my Jeep requires ATF-4, which is no longer sold and has been replaced by ATF+4, which has some changes, but can take the place of -4), but otherwise, I look the Factory Shop Manual (or the car user manual if you can't find an FSM PDF) and go exactly by that. As far as I'm concerned, the FSM for any given car is the Bible.

But also, my auto parts store has a huge bunch of regular motor oil to choose from, but their transmission fluid section is less than a quarter of that, so not a ton of choices when it comes to that.

 

[Frag Maniac]

^Thanks, I checked the user manual and talked to the shop I use for motor oil changes (Grease Monkey, who I find are pretty good), and the ATF I need is Mercon V. I too thought it was non synthetic if it didn't say on the bottle it was, but one of the more knowledgeable Grease Monkey staff says it's actually synthetic, and not just a blend.

The manager there knows Fords well and owns some. He stays up to date on Ford's changing recommendations on fluids. Apparently they're going to lighter viscosity ones. The guy I talked to on the phone though was not him, but seemed just as knowledgeable and verified the change to lighter viscosity. He's from Wenatchee in Eastern Washington and just got the job here. I told him I'd mt biked many of the trails over there and he agreed they have some of the best.

As far as the filter goes, you're right, it's one that's deep inside where the tranny mounts I think, and is meant to last until it needs rebuilding or replacing. Grease Monkey is also fully aware that power flushing the fluid out is dangerous, but agreed it's confusing because some shops call a drain and fill a flush. I've currently got about 176,000 mi on it, and I expect the ATF change warning light to come on at around 180,000 mi, as Ford suggests an every 60,000 mi change.

Today I plan on driving it the recommended 20 mi to warm up the ATF sufficiently for a level check. Since Grease Monkey just checked it about 3000 mi ago, I don't think it will be too low if at all, but at least I'll know. I've read it's dangerous to overfill and can even cause damage, so I will be very careful if I need to top it off.

 

[Frag Maniac]

@BeardyHat,

UPDATE on the 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid! Like an idiot I was looking at the non Hybrid owners manual, which DOES have an ATF dipstick. Mine however does not, and I find it odd there isn't even a warning indicator for ATF change intervals.

I found this video though that says mine should have a drain plug on the bottom of the tranny, and a fill port higher on the tranny set at a height that drains out excess when it is adequately full.

QUESTION, how does one know what an acceptable ambient temp range for filling is, since ATF temp is critical to proper fill level and tranny function/protection? I would have to assume these self leveling fill ports are at a level that accounts for/allows for heat expansion of the fluid?

The below video shows this vehicle seemed to be over filled with ATF, so I have to wonder if the user filled it during winter with very cold temps.

 

[BeardyHat]

@BeardyHat,

UPDATE on the 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid! Like an idiot I was looking at the non Hybrid owners manual, which DOES have an ATF dipstick. Mine however does not, and I find it odd there isn't even a warning indicator for ATF change intervals.

I found this video though that says mine should have a drain plug on the bottom of the tranny, and a fill port higher on the tranny set at a height that drains out excess when it is adequately full.

QUESTION, how does one know what an acceptable ambient temp range for filling is, since ATF temp is critical to proper fill level and tranny function/protection? I would have to assume these self leveling fill ports are at a level that accounts for/allows for heat expansion of the fluid?

The below video shows this vehicle seemed to be over filled with ATF, so I have to wonder if the user filled it during winter with very cold temps.

In that case, I'm not sure how one would go about figuring out the appropriate level of fluid, aside from measuring what comes out.

I suppose, thinking about it, you could measure what comes out and then see what the recommended fluid amount is. For example, when I drained mine, the FSM tells me when refilling, fill it up with 4-quarts, measure and see if you need to add more. So I suppose you could drain it, measure how much comes out and then whatever the owners manual says, go off that. So say you got 6-quarts out and the manual says to refill with 4-quarts, maybe split the different and go with 5-quarts and see how it behaves. Obviously, it might behave poorly due to having either too much or too little, so difficult to say; but you could also poke around some forums, because there's bound to have been people that encountered this problem on there and solved it.

But I'm just shooting in the dark here. You might be best taking it to a trusted Ford dealer to have them take a look at it; obviously it'll be more expensive, but it might be worth the peace of mind to ensure it's done properly and according to procedure. I'm definitely no professional!

Edit: rereading, I see I didn't answer your question. If I were in your shoes, I'd probably stick with it being hot. I think ambient temp is going to be negligible as long as the vehicle is at proper operating temperature. Though that poses its own problems with touching a hot drain plug and potentially getting hot fluid on your hand/arm; I've certainly done that before, usually with an oil change, but it's certainly not my preference.

Edit: Edit: It occurs to me that maybe there would be a difference if the vehicle/fluid is hot and your pouring room temp fluid into it? But maybe if the pan is hot, it heats up the fluid enough to account for such things? Hard to say.

Yet another edit: Looked around, but haven't been able to find any uploads of the shop manual for free. Came across numerous sites selling them, this seems to be the cheapest and LOOKS like what you'd want, but I can't say for certain

Ford Escape 2008-2011 Factory Service Repair Manual, Workshop Service Repair Manual, Ebook, Pdf, INSTANT DOWNLOAD - English Language - Etsy

This Car Accessories item is sold by CarsWorkshopManuals. Ships from United States. Listed on May 23, 2025

www.etsy.com

Here it is physically: https://www.factoryrepairmanuals.co...cury-mariner-factory-shop-service-manual-set/

But again, I might poke around some Escape forums and see if anyone has a solution.

 

[Frag Maniac]

In that case, I'm not sure how one would go about figuring out the appropriate level of fluid, aside from measuring what comes out.

I suppose, thinking about it, you could measure what comes out and then see what the recommended fluid amount is. For example, when I drained mine, the FSM tells me when refilling, fill it up with 4-quarts, measure and see if you need to add more. So I suppose you could drain it, measure how much comes out and then whatever the owners manual says, go off that. So say you got 6-quarts out and the manual says to refill with 4-quarts, maybe split the different and go with 5-quarts and see how it behaves. Obviously, it might behave poorly due to having either too much or too little, so difficult to say; but you could also poke around some forums, because there's bound to have been people that encountered this problem on there and solved it.

But I'm just shooting in the dark here. You might be best taking it to a trusted Ford dealer to have them take a look at it; obviously it'll be more expensive, but it might be worth the peace of mind to ensure it's done properly and according to procedure. I'm definitely no professional!

Edit: rereading, I see I didn't answer your question. If I were in your shoes, I'd probably stick with it being hot. I think ambient temp is going to be negligible as long as the vehicle is at proper operating temperature. Though that poses its own problems with touching a hot drain plug and potentially getting hot fluid on your hand/arm; I've certainly done that before, usually with an oil change, but it's certainly not my preference.

Edit: Edit: It occurs to me that maybe there would be a difference if the vehicle/fluid is hot and your pouring room temp fluid into it? But maybe if the pan is hot, it heats up the fluid enough to account for such things? Hard to say.

Yet another edit: Looked around, but haven't been able to find any uploads of the shop manual for free. Came across numerous sites selling them, this seems to be the cheapest and LOOKS like what you'd want, but I can't say for certain

Ford Escape 2008-2011 Factory Service Repair Manual, Workshop Service Repair Manual, Ebook, Pdf, INSTANT DOWNLOAD - English Language - Etsy

This Car Accessories item is sold by CarsWorkshopManuals. Ships from United States. Listed on May 23, 2025

www.etsy.com

Here it is physically: https://www.factoryrepairmanuals.co...cury-mariner-factory-shop-service-manual-set/

But again, I might poke around some Escape forums and see if anyone has a solution.

No, like I said, the fill port IS the method of measuring the amount of fluid to put in, as it's put at a proper height to just fill, then let any excess drain out. In other words it's higher up on the SIDE of the tranny case, not underneath it.

My only question as I said is how does one know the proper ambient temp allowable to safely fill it, and whether that fill port height is adjusted for heat expansion? If you watched the video, you can see when the mech first opens just the upper fill port, quite a bit of fluid drained out, and he said it was too full. It seems to me the only ways that could happen is if the vehicle wasn't level when filled, or the ambient temp was very low. The manual says nothing about safe fill temps, so I have to assume the front end of the vehicle was on ramps or jack stands.

Here's the pdf owner's manual for it, and you can see on page 286 it just says the fluid needs to be within 1/4" / 6mm of the fill plug threads. I'm pretty sure they mean no lower than that, as most like I said just wait until the excess drains out to a slow drip, then put the plug in. The manual on the previous page also says to use the same method to prepare for a drain as you would a level check, driving 20 mi to warm it up.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/08hevog2e.pdf

I might be a bit too worried about this, the guy in the video I just posted is a well known pretty thorough mech on YT. So judging by how he did it, I think as long as the fluid isn't extremely above or below room temp, and you just fill it until it stops pouring out the fill port, it's good enough. Also, after driving 20 mi more carefully today thinking I was going to check the level via a dipstick that wasn't there, it may not be as bad as I thought. It shifted pretty smoothly today, so I'm thinking now it could be I've just been driving it a bit too aggressively at times, especially since it's on the last 5% of the 3rd fluid change interval.

 

[Charagma]

Probably one of my favorite days. Two days ago, delivered the work we been busy with for around 3 weeks. Client called yesterday and is happy, do not require any changes. Gave the team off for today. It is school holidays here by us so I will not be seeing any students. Just me and my PC.

"One day when I retire, I will probably be job hunting"

 

[BeardyHat]

I might be a bit too worried about this, the guy in the video I just posted is a well known pretty thorough mech on YT. So judging by how he did it, I think as long as the fluid isn't extremely above or below room temp, and you just fill it until it stops pouring out the fill port, it's good enough. Also, after driving 20 mi more carefully today thinking I was going to check the level via a dipstick that wasn't there, it may not be as bad as I thought. It shifted pretty smoothly today, so I'm thinking now it could be I've just been driving it a bit too aggressively at times, especially since it's on the last 5% of the 3rd fluid change interval.

Odds are, if it's been going this long, it'll probably keep going, so you can just pay close attention to it and see how it feels for the time being from there.

And I see now what you're getting at about overfilling. That said, it could be the case that someone put half a quart in while the fill plug is in place, right? Because isn't there the plug and then a spout up top to put more in? Someone maybe didn't remove the fill plug before refilling?

Haven't had a moment to check out the video you posted, so I'm not sure if I missed something here or not.

Also, just a thought and not to try and freak you out or anything, but just hypothesizing: maybe the fluid is actually slightly low, if you notice no adverse shifting while you're driving calmly. My thought process being that if you're driving aggressively, the fluid may be sloshing and not properly lubricating because there's not enough to go around. Just a random thought based on what you mention.